• Lagun Ftv 4 Parts

Lagun FTV-1 - rebuild Hello, I rebuilt this lagun a couple years back and lost a bunch of the pictures I took. Or so I thought. I found the majority so am going to post this. I believe I got spanked on this purchase as I was led to believe the seller did not know what was wrong with it.

During the teardown I found serious damage and almost scrapped it along with evidence that it had been at least partially torn down. Worst damage was it was run with bearings so far gone it damaged the front variable speed shaft. I decided to go ahead with it because I like the challenge of it. A suggestion to anyone delaying a repair to a noisy machine. In addition to the damaged shaft the ways had some wear.

Manual.pdf repair manual klr 250.pdf lagun ftv 2 manual.pdf Engineered for maximum accuracy and minimal downtime, the FTV-2F vertical milling machine comes standard with a Manual Settings, 55 RPM to 4,250 RPM (2) Mazak HD Manual Lathe.

My goal once committing to the rebuild was to rebuild just the head and repair/replace any damaged or missing parts. I very quickly found that Lagun parts are scarce used and Expensive new but it generally seemed a high quality machine,and WAS probably a very nice one in its day. I recieved a bunch of help from a gentleman from the company named Carmen Morrow. He helped with this project off and on for at least a good dozen phone calls. I also was helped by another online friend. There is a lot to be said for someone with the skill and patience to assist you online or by phone.

Lagun variable speed heads evolved into I think at least 3 generations with not all the parts interchangable,at least not completly. I came close enough to scrapping it that i researched the price of scrap iron and inventoried the sellable used parts. The pulley picture is a picture of the motor pulley. It is a picture of what I thought was a pin but came to find out it was the end of a key. I should probably note that while I am a fair mechanic thanks to the USAF and the USMC.,I am not a trained machinist. My knowledge of this machine came with a few scrapes and bumps in the road.

1. Aug 03, 2016  Lagun FTV-1 - rebuild Hello, I rebuilt this lagun a couple years back and lost a bunch of the pictures I took. The first brake pic is before the repair and the following 2 show the repair. Also, recognize I had some online help from my freind Don throught this sleeve job. The Lagun manual is very helpfull and inludes parts.
2. Lagun FTV-2, Milling Machine, Instructions and Parts Manual Business. Lagun FT1, FT2 FT3 Vertical Milling Machine, Operations and Maintenance Manual. Machine, Instruction and Parts Manual. This Manual Covers Models: FTV-2.

I am probably going to jump around here and there. These are photos of the column and maybe a few others. Once I was committed to this I did not want to leave the worn ways go. During teardown, I found at least one lube line that was worn though.That contibuted heavily to the condition of one of the table ways and probably to the others as well considering the lube probably travels a path of least resistance. This lube system is not metered. Other newer versions are. I would guess a metered system would waste less oil.

I will also admit to another blunder in that I initially did not get the column scraped in. My thoughts were that you could see original scrapeing marks clearly. After I put the knee on,I quickly found out that there was no gib adjustment left. Moral of the story is don't waste road time,fuel and 2 more 3 hour round trips to A&D in Roberts Wisconsin.

This was NOT their fault. The father and son team do great work. I wish I had the opportunity to learn a skill like this when I was younger. I just plain and simple dig working on machines! I had them grind/scrape/refit fit the table,saddle,knee and column. I also had them plug a few tabletop blunders that were inherited with the machine. I basically delivered the cleaned parts in order to save me money.

To address the hole in the lube line I made several clips for new line and secured them with 4/40 caphead screws. I only broke one 4/40 tap. I added some in other spots as well. I ended up using a box of those 4/40 screws on all the little pointers and tags on the whole machine. The 1st pic of the whole colunm is before the grind/scrape/flake. Here are some partial pictures of the grind/scrape and flake work done by A&D machine rebuilders. Look back at the pictures already posted and you can see the column not done and done.

I will take some good shots of the complete machine as it sits in a few days when I warm up the shop on my days off. The table has been done on 3 sides I think.

Lagun Ftv 4 Parts

Table was not perfect and a couple holes were plugged before grinding.The angle iron on top of the table are brackets I whipped up to handle it with a auto engine hoist or cherry picker as some call it. I also made up a set to handle the knee which needs to be raised up quite a bit to clear the column. I think I only have 1 view of the saddle. While the grind was done I whipped out the welder cart so the pic was in the bunch and I thought I'd share. These are pictures of the fine feed wheel which was cracked through the spinner handle threads.

A new one was expensive at around probably 80 bucks including shipping. I filed it clean and used some wire for reinforcing and then epoxied a nutsert that I scavenged out of a piece of old furniture. 1/4x20 thead I think but better steel than plastic threads.Then I made my first ever knurled spinner knob for it.

Painted it a wrinkle paint. I should note that I modified a couple bridgeport parts to fit this machine but I am unwilling to buy something I was not sure would fit so that said,there may be other interchangeable parts maybe even this wheel. These are pictures of the fine feed wheel which was cracked through the spinner handle threads. A new one was expensive at around probably 80 bucks including shipping. I filed it clean and used some wire for reinforcing and then epoxied a nutsert that I scavenged out of a piece of old furniture.

1/4x20 thead I think but better steel than plastic threads.Then I made my first ever knurled spinner knob for it. Painted it a wrinkle paint. I should note that I modified a couple bridgeport parts to fit this machine but I am unwilling to buy something I was not sure would fit so that said,there may be other interchangeable parts maybe even this wheel. Here are some pics of the front shaft sleeve and install hardware to repair the front variable speed shaft. Basically I made a press with a knurled sleeve guide.

Plan was to clean up the worn area on the shaft in the lathe. After cleanup cuts,I Cut a.001 smaller sleeve of oversize OD. I Used a high strength sleeve loctite and very quickly ran the sleeve down usung a threaded rod press. It worked perfectly. I then cut the od of the sleeve to bearing ID and filed in the dog clutch teeth. That loctite sets up like now!

I also will put up some pics of the brake which was almost worn out plus the spring was broken. I came up with a way to shim it for more life that worked as well. Now after this stuff was done I ran across someone who was selling off some Lagun parts.

In the pile was a lower Lagun cnc housing that had a new front shaft and pulley assembly plus a new clutch. A new shaft assemble from Lagun runs about 1600.00 and brake 170.00 without the shipping. I bought the whole lower housing for 500.00. I figure I can always sell the ones I fixed if someone wants them. I was leary about how the sleeve would hold up so after tossing it around I felt it better to put the new stuff in. Add in that there was some slop on the dog teeth that my fix would not repair. The shaft and brake are both the newest generation Lagun parts.

The new shaft dog teeth fit the old matching shaft perfect. Plus I have a few extra cnc parts for epay. The first brake pic is before the repair and the following 2 show the repair. Also, recognize I had some online help from my freind Don throught this sleeve job. Here are a few shots of motor before and after.

I put 2 new bearings in the motor. They were dry and noisy. Also one picture of the ram during paint and a few other parts. I made a switch mount that holds the converter and main switch plus built in a collet rack on top of it. Like I mentioned before the only reason for the switch is to remove the 220 from the converter when it is sitting.

I could have just unplugged it too. I probably tend to overbuild something if I don't know much about it. I may have a few more pics but that is most. Anything in particular you need a shot of? One thing to be aware of is if the head is noisy,it may mean bushings and bearings. That is doable for most.

However,pay close attention to the overall condition. Mine was used and abused and the cost to restore was more due to that. A machine that was well used but taken care along the way would have been a blessing.

Take tools and play with the gib adjustments. ALL of them too. That will at least indicate wear. Screws are expensive so check wear in the middle and the ends of both the X and Y. My head was so badly treated that the lower front drive pulley bearing only had a few balls left in it. That would be the one at the bottom of the lower housing above the spindle. The upper front shaft was damaged although I did do a sleeve on it I ended up finding a newer front shaft and pulley setup with a new brake.

It was also noisy and I thought bushings. I got a heck of a education. I did not do as many pics as I should have but it is very similar to the bridgeport. There is a bridgeport manual downloadable that someone did that is very helpfull. The Lagun manual is very helpfull and inludes parts breakdowns which are also usefull.

I scrubbed the whole machine with scotchbrite pads and mineral spirits. I did not remove solidly attached paint. Just sanded the whole machine and then primed bare spots and topcoated with sherwin williams machine paint. I used brush and small roller to paint. I also used a leveling additive in the paint to minimize brush marks.

I used quality sealed bearings. I will have to look from where and let you know. Not Lagun though. Source parts from cheapest place but make sure they are quality equal to Lagun. The sealed spindle bearings are also an option but that is a arguable point.

I know there are companies that are doing sealed bearings on spindles now. Do a search on that. The same brand Bushings Lagun uses can be had from Motion Industries. Parts are expensive from Lagun but I would argue that factory prices would be high from Bridgeport as well if it existed in its's original form. I used the one part sherwin williams paint and their oil based primer. Very little filler needed.

Sanddan, The head was very noisy but since I never heard a bad one I made a uneducated guess and bought the machine thinking bushings were bad. They were, but were only part of the problem. If you know or have a friend who is a machinist. I would suggest picking their brain or better yet,bribe them into assisting you in evaluating a machine if you do not already have one. In my case I could have scrapped and parted the machine but chose to restore it. I got spanked on it but decided to make some lemonaide. Here are some partial pictures of the grind/scrape and flake work done by A&D machine rebuilders.

Look back at the pictures already posted and you can see the column not done and done. I will take some good shots of the complete machine as it sits in a few days when I warm up the shop on my days off. The table has been done on 3 sides I think.

Table was not perfect and a couple holes were plugged before grinding.The angle iron on top of the table are brackets I whipped up to handle it with a auto engine hoist or cherry picker as some call it. I also made up a set to handle the knee which needs to be raised up quite a bit to clear the column. I think I only have 1 view of the saddle. While the grind was done I whipped out the welder cart so the pic was in the bunch and I thought I'd share.

I just got a Lagun FTV 1S and have a few questions First I hauled it home on a trailer w/ the head inverted and all the oil came out (seemed like a good idea at the time) Any particular oil for the head? The oil ran into the base but I can not find a drain. Now that oil from the head is mixed w/ whatever was in the coolant tank. Is there a way to empty it out without using the pump? It is stamped SE-19447 on the machine in front of the Y axis control. Is this the serial number and if so can I find out the date made?

I found a manual for a FTV 2 on line. Could I use this as a manual or do I have to get one from Lagun for $$$$$$$$$$$ Looks like a gr8 machine & can not wait to crank it up, just waiting for a VFD to come next week.

Thanks for any help, ed. Ed, I also am the happy owner of a Lagun, mine is an FT-1. Yes that is the serial number you are looking. I can't remember exactly when mine was made, sometime in the 80's but it's serial number is in the 15's so yours is either late 80's or early 90's. If you call Lagun their tech guy can tell you when it was made, he's very knowledgeable, but doesn't always listen real well to what you are telling him as he moves real fast. As for spindle oil. I use Mobil Velocite #6 spindle oil.

Priced reasonably at Enco, especially when on sale. When I queried Lagun on the oil I was told any spindle oil would be fine. I run Mobil Vactra #2 in the oiler for the ways. I agree that the cost is, in my opinion, high for the manual. I have yet to find a source for a copy or even find someone that has a manual that I could get a peek. Mine came out of a school, so it's missing a couple of items and had a couple of broken parts, I still have to make some.

Watch out for the shipping, they will send you a part that costs just a few dollars then charge you $16 to send it in a little envelope via UPS. That machine is similar to my Webb. There is no oil reservoir in the head. There are oil cups arranged around the head. The front and rear ones on my machine are for light oil, 10 wt.

The one on the left is for a periodic shot of Lubriplate to reach in and lubricate the bevel gears for the downfeed train. On my Webb, it had been used with flood coolant when it was CNC controlled. I run it manually so I removed the two drain grills in the base and covered them with metal plates that lock in with bolts and gaskets. I opened the rear and side covers on the base and discovered that there was about an inch of semi-dried coolant and oil in the base.

It took me a couple of days to get it all out by scraping and soaking it up with paper towels and newspapers. Once I got it out, I put in a layer of oil dry to soak the rest of it.

In another few months, I plan on opening it up again and vacuuming out the oil dry pellets. Manual prices are usually very high. I had to buy the one from Webb and it cost me $50. It was worth it, however, since I needed to replace the parts that were removed when it was running CNC. The Webb manual has all of the parts numbers and blowup drawings and all of the parts are available. Lagun is an excellent brand. Ed, Nope, it's the step pulley version, which is OK with me.

I feel that when you have more parts you have more that can fail, of course if this thing had the variable I'd have taken it anyway. It's tough to find decent machines in this area, so you can't be too picky. All of the Bridgeport that I looked at here were beat to death, then I found the Lagun, snagged it fast. Also, run to a discount store and get a turkey baster. If you have nothing else to get the coolant out of the sump with, the baster will work well for sucking up that stuff. It's a little slow, but faster than towels and paper.

Get a shop vac and suck the crap out, its that simple. Lagun is a good solid mill I used to take a 3 inch face mill, sock it in 1/2' deep in aluminum, rev it up to 4,000 rpm and rapid traverse it into the work and throw chips everywhere. I hated that mill but no matter what I did it just kept going (I wanted a newer mill, it was 10 years). No go, that machine let me horse the piss out of it time and time again and did not care. I stalled the spindle 100 times and it would keep going once I backed the feed off. We ran it balls out redline for weeks doing some rework that a $800,000 hydromat did not do and had to drill 14,000.043' holes in stressproof.

I hoped that would make it melt down but no, it kept going. 2 weeks later it drilled 14,000.043' holes. My main bitch about that mill was I had to spend a day in an inspection lab with jewlers files to get my stainless wire edm fixtures within.0002' It was also 30 taper and I had to use crappy ER collets.

I stole endmill holders from the CNC guys so I would not have to use crappy ER collets. I would not give $.02 for 10,000 ER collets. Looking back it was a great mill, Iv run some real crap and it was strong and accurate by comparison. You got good mill IMHO.

If its 30 taper buy endmill holders. That way you can get work done. Congratulations on a nice machine! LAGUN's are very sturdy and accurate machines.

They are also about 500 pounds heavier than a comparably sized Bridgeport. I had an older LAGUN I purchased and used about 10 years ago. The coolant sump was also full of swarf, and some serious muck. I removed the coolant pump first. To clean out the sump I had to use a paint scraper and shop vac to get the big chunks out of the sump.

Then I filled the sump with a sodium hydroxide based cleaner, 409, Super Clean, etc mixed with liquid DAWN dishwashing soap. I let that sit for about a week. I used an extension nylon bristle brush to scrub the bottom and sides of the sump. I sucked that out with a pond pump (Shop Vac will work just as well). Then I boiled water and poured it into the sump at the drain. I pumped the water mixture out and repeated about a dozen times. When the mixture cleared up I added some more cleaner (without the dishwashing soap due to the suds) and pumped it out through the coolant system and original pump.

It was a lot of work but it did the trick. I don't know if you are using your LAGUN for home shop or to make money.

I tried using a static phase converter to get 3 phase since 3 phase is not available to where I live in the sticks. I never realized how much power I was losing with the Static PC untic I built a rotary PC for my new LAGUN mentioned next. I needed higher tolerances for making gun and scientific components so.

I bought a new, from LAGUN, FTV-1, in June 2005. It has been a nice, sturdy, reliable machine.

While I am happy with the machine, I can't say I have been too happy with LAGUN. About a year after purchasing the machine and picking it up in Carson, CA (L.A.) I got a letter telling me that they forgot to charge me for tax and that I owed $900 +. I ignored them until they threatened to send a letter to the Board of Equalization which would have gotten my business audited. The out-the-door price I negotiated with the salesman failed to disclose the price was so good because he never added the tax. Of course the salesman I dealt with no longer worked at LAGUN when I tried to dispute the additional purchase price.

I was in the process of purchasing a large Republic Lathe from them until I go the bad news, and cancelled the order after dealing with the added TAX issue. After purchasing the NEW LAGUN I immediately purchased SERVO powerfeeds X & Y, and an Accurite 200S DRO. I bought the SERVO powerfeeds from MSC because they were on sale. I assumed since the SERVO PF's were listed for Bridgeport Type Mills they would work on the LAGUN. That is not the case.

The LAGUN Table & Cross-main screws are larger than a Bridgeport resulting in a larger diameter hole in the manual feed screw cranks. I called MSC and they told me that SERVO powerfeeds for Brisgeport machines do not fit LAGUN machines. I called SERVO and they told me that they could not sell me the SERVO powerfeeds for LAGUN because they have an agreement with Republic LAGUN that only Republic LAGUN can sell the SERVO feeds for LAGUN machines. I called LAGUN and they confirmed that sales agreement with SERVO. I was unhappy to say the least since the SERVO's were about $180 more, EACH, through LAGUN than through MSC.

I bit the bullet, bought the parts through LAGUN, and then wrote them, and SERVO a nasty letter. My next surprise came with my Accurite DRO, X, Y, Z scales.

It was on sale through J&L but when I received it, it also would not fit my LAGUN. I had to purchase special adapters to make the DRO work on the LAGUN. The first adapter kit sent by ACCURITE did not fit, so I spent a good amount of time on the phone with Accurite to get everything figured out. The ACCURITE customer service was outstanding!

I recently added a KURT power drawbar (R8) which is a HUGE time and back saver. I had to order the model specifically for the LAGUN and it installed without a problem.

One last thing that is simple is that the quill lever gets obstructed by the direct / back gear, High / Low lever when power feeding the quill downward. It was a simple fix bu removing the gear drive lever, heating it and bending it enough so the quill lever can pass it without tripping the auto-depth stop on the quill. The fasteners are English and Metric FYI, since the LAGUN is designed in the USA and assembled in the USA and Spain. As far as the Instruction Manual, I would just buy a new or used one and consider that part of the cost of the machine. I have a manual, but it would be a pain to copy, or scan due to the fold out pages. It is also spiral bound. If you just need a few pages, let me know and I can send them to you via e-mail.

If you ever would like to see how I have mine set up just let me know and I'll send some pics of the area you are interested in. Preventive maintenance, and routine lubrication keep the machine running quietly. Although there were some surprises in adding accessories, I am very happy with the machine and would recommend them to other machinists, with the accessory warnings. I just got a Lagun FTV 1S and have a few questions First I hauled it home on a trailer w/ the head inverted and all the oil came out (seemed like a good idea at the time) Any particular oil for the head? The oil ran into the base but I can not find a drain. Now that oil from the head is mixed w/ whatever was in the coolant tank. Is there a way to empty it out without using the pump?

It is stamped SE-19447 on the machine in front of the Y axis control. Is this the serial number and if so can I find out the date made? I found a manual for a FTV 2 on line. Could I use this as a manual or do I have to get one from Lagun for $$$$$$$$$$$ Looks like a gr8 machine & can not wait to crank it up, just waiting for a VFD to come next week. Thanks for any help, ed Upside down oil - I did the same. Manual and exorbitant shipping not worth much.

Manual has lots of beautiful mechanical dwgs of unit and parts but not much else. I won't copy it. You want to own a machine they sell for $15K, it's not a surprise the manual is expensive. Lubrication per manual: Top of spindle Mobile DTE 25 monthly ( I think just a squirt for splined drive into spindle). Oil cup and ball fitting on left side of head Mobile DTE 25 monthly One shot oiler as needed Mobilegear 629. My serial number 21008 = 1987 Same model as yours. I removed the coolant pump from the sump and closed it up with about 3' of sludge for the next owner.

Made an external tank from an old 40# propane tank. Congratulations and good luck.

The manual is available on eBay from a seller that goes by the name of Ozark Woodwork or something like that. His manuals are repros, but clear and readable.

Manuals from Lagun are very pricey. BTW, someone mentioned serial #SE-19447 as being from the 1980's - makes me wonder about my Lagun, its serial number is SE-1079.

It must be older than dirt, almost as old as I. But, the machine runs great.

I've had no problems with it. Last month I added two axis DRO.

I did have to make a new drawbar because the Chicom drawbar it came with was worthless - too short, wobbled, and banged on something that made me think I had a bad gear. My home made draw bar solved the problem. Some day I will have to replace the clock spring for the manual quill feed lever. It was broken when I got the mill. Not a difficult repair, just that I know Lagun is going to want an arm and a leg for that bloody spring. Duke thanks for the long reply.

I have decided to leave the muck in the base till warmer weather returns, I use mist & have no need for flood. I use my machines for both hobby & business. The mill came w/ a very old but accurate Sony Magnescale DRO. I am trying to find out if I can leave the scales & buy a new 3 axis head for it.

If that does not work out I will put a Newall or Accurite on it. If you have pix of the DRO mounting I would love to see them. My only real concern is the ball oiler on the head I really stink at oiling them and have replaced them on all my other machines(see other post) lubrication is very important to me. So far I have only used the Lagun a few hours but I like what I have seen so far.

Strong, powerful, rigid and fairly quiet. Only downside is tool change but I don’t have enough room for power drawbar. Thanks again ed p.s.

From reading your location I can assume you are one of the few in your state who is not a commie? Gr8life, I too have a question about the Lagun lube system. On the left side of the head there is a ball oiler like yours, just below it is a grease fitting. Guys from another forum warned me not to use grease. A tech at Lagun told me to use Vactra 20 everywhere. So, I replaced the grease fitting with an oil cup like you have, and filed it with oil. It takes about two minutes for all the oil to drain out and begin to drip from the quill.

The quill doesn't seem to be loose, so I wonder if I have over filled the thing. I have a Lagun manual but its useless regarding lubrication.

The placard on the machine calls out for some sort of unknown lube, maybe Spanish or such. Maybe I should take a look inside, but that doesn't look like much fun. My machine runs great.

No gear noise, negligible spindle run out. I'm lost, any help or suggestions will be appreciated.

BTW, the machine is a FT-1, serial #SE-1079, probably has Franco's autograph somewhere on it. Thanks, Johnny (the other non-commie from that state).

Gr8life, I have that grease fitting on the back as well and have left it in place. I believe is for the low speed/reverse gearing. I don't think I've been using moly grease, I'll have to check, but if not I'll probably use what I have then replace it with a moly cartridge. You think I'm ok using oil in the lower fitting on the left side? Also, as for oil, are you using light stuff like Vactra 20 or heavier stuff like gear oil? Recently, for the lower left fitting, the one that was a grease fitting, I've been using 90 wt gear oil.

All the machines I've seen, except for mine, have an oil cup there and not the grease fitting. And yes, I'm down here in So. Kalif., hoping the Governator doesn't outlaw home shops. Don't laugh, it bloody well could happen. My Webb has three cup oilers on the head, the type with a spring cap. They thread into the head with pipe threads. The one on the left should really be a grease fitting since it's used to get Lubriplate into the downfeed bevel gear on the end of the worm cradle according to the manual.

Since the Lagun is also a BP style mill, I presume that it should have grease in the left side. My Webb has no grease fitting for the downfeed gear on the rear of the head but when I didassembled the head to replace a broken downfeed bevel that was there when I got it, there was plenty of grease in there. They say to 'use light oil' in the spindle bearings in the manual. That really pins it down.

I guess some oil is better than no oil. The Lagun appears to be a heavy machine. My Webb is the next to the largest. I'd estimate that the Lagun in the picture is similar in weight, at least 3,500 pounds. They are sure rigid! Gnm109, They are heavy. I got mine for free last year when its owner was going to sell it for scrap.

I paid a machine mover $500 to move t five miles from the former owner's shop to my house where he had agreed to install it into my 'shop' (in reality nothing but an 8'x12' shed). When the mover got to my place, he said it was impossible to place the machine inside my shop and just left it in the street. Well, a neighbor and I moved that beast and got it inside the shop. We had no tools other that some 3/4' pipes, a crowbar, and one of those cheapo HF cranes. My neighbor is 65 years old and I admit to being 70.

Somehow, we got the job done. Its a great machine.

In the past I had a choice between running a Lagun or a BP. I chose the BP and never touched a Lagun til I got mine. I write this because I've seen people reluctant to by one and hold out for a BP. This is understandable since the BP is the defacto standard for this class of mill. If I needed another, I would buy a Lagun in a New York minute. I too have a question about the Lagun lube system.

On the left side of the head there is a ball oiler like yours, just below it is a grease fitting. Guys from another forum warned me not to use grease. A tech at Lagun told me to use Vactra 20 everywhere. So, I replaced the grease fitting with an oil cup like you have, and filed it with oil. It takes about two minutes for all the oil to drain out and begin to drip from the quill.

I'm pretty sure that the cup that's supposed to be there has a pigtail to direct the oil to the spindle bearings, and if the oil gets to the bearings it'll take a day or more to come out. Call the parts folks and ask about the cup - it's part 341 or 493 on page 17 of the manual.pdf posted (hey! That looks to be an OCR of my mill's manual! Same serial number and all). As for oil - I use Vactra #2 way oil for the ways and Vactra Light on the spindle and other head oiling points.

Yeah these old thread bumpers. For these oil/grease/cups on the lagun, whats what? On my new to me lagun ft2 there is an oil cup on the left lower port, a ball fitting on the upper, and a grease fitting on the read of the head. I also like mentioned back in this thread don't like the ball oilers much. I assume it is ok to replace the ball oiler with a cup? Confusing about the grease fitting, many say don't use grease in these, then some say do, what to do?

Lol Also while we are on it, I have always used whats around for lube on my lathe which happens to be chainsaw bar and chain oil on the ways and 30wt non detergent motor oil in the bearings. Now with the new mill I am willing to get the right stuff and will use it for both mill and lathe. Whats the stuff to get for ways and bearings? I also have a 'Lagun' model FTV 4 milling machine that I bought new in around 1985. I really like it, a very nice machine. It came with a gearbox in the knee that provided 12 different, gear drive feed rates and a rapid travel to all 3 directions on the knee.

In other words, there's very little hand cranking when moving the table around. The rapid travel is especially nice when running the knee up and down.

It also came with a standard # 40 milling machine taper on the spindle. I also purchased it with a digital readout and a 'power drawbar' which is nothing more than a air impact wrench that cranks the drawbar. The power drawbar has given me a lot of trouble with it's O rings wearing out and leaking so bad that there is not enough air to operate the impact wrench. As of now I don't even use the drawbar, I might fix it someday, I'm ok with using the wrench tightened drawbar though. I guess that if I had any complaint with this mill, it would have to be with the fact that it really leaks oil out of the power gearbox in the knee.

I use GL-5, 90 wt gear oil in the knee and it leaks out pretty quick. I don't think that there are any gaskets in the knee anywhere. Someday I might take it all apart and machine it for O-rings at all the mating surfaces, but that would take a lot of time and effort. So far I haven't done anything but run it and pour oil into it. It has a 11' X 58' table, and hard chromed ways.

You guys are right, a Lagun is a very nice milling machine. I really like mine and have used it a lot and sometimes on some pretty heavy work pieces too. I think that this machine weighs around 4000 LB's. Your friend, Doggie. The cup on my Lagun is plastic and it seems the threads are stripped out.

I haven't pulled it out yet to confirm there is actually threads or if it is a push in type but I know it spins pretty loosely and leaks down the head some. If I do need a new cup I would love to get two right away and replace that top ball oiler with the extra cup if it is ok to do. The plastic cup seems to break a bit, I had to replace mine 15 years ago. You can call and talk to the parts guy about the ball oiler, I looked but couldn't really see exactly what it was to oil.