• Hesston 530 Baler Operators Manual

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Hey Dirtdoctor, I don't have it with me at the moment but later this afternoon I'll grab the manual for the 5500, look through it and find a way to get you a copy of the proper pages. Pretty much all of my equipment is junk, I mean used, and from auctions and such. What I do is contact the appropriatte dealer and order an operaters manual. Seems there's always some trick, hidden grease nipple, or adjustment you won't find otherwise. I know you'd like the info before the purchase though so we'll get that for you. I had a Heston 5540 and if I remember correctly the book stated that resizing the belts to the factory size would have very little impact on the tightness of the bale. I may be mistaken on that, but I recall the book stating that tightening the springs on each side was the way to get a tighter bale.

Not sure if the 5500 would be the same or not. Mine made pretty decent bales when I got it and I never made any adjustments to it, but I did replace the belts once and didn't notice a difference; but like I said it made a decent bale before. Ground speed seemed to make the biggest difference. A couple notes on belts: 1) Belts that are too long will not allow the core to be properly pressurized and will make starting the bale more difficult.

This really only applies if the belts are so stretched they won't turn with an empty chamber, although I have seen loose cores when the belts were turning with an empty chamber. I never let my NH belts vary by more than a couple inches from recommended length. 2) Belts that are too short will tend to break when the bale gets close to the end. If you're going to shorten the belts, make sure you 'break them in' again and roll some smaller bales before going to full size bales. If you get the belts too short, you'll never be able to roll a full size bale.

How much you can shorten the belts varies from baler to baler. 3) Belts of varying lengths are also bad news, as the shorter belts tend to have to hold more tension than the longer belts, so you'll find yourself breaking the short belts. Haven't had a chance to check for the 5510 manual, but I should have some spare time this weekend. 1982vett wrote:I agree with bale uniformity of mismatched belts. I'm just wondering if it actually effects tension a huge amount? Now I can agree that if they start to go slack before the gate latches tension would be reduced at the beginning of a bale making a loose core. But as long as the springs are taught when the door latches I just don't know for sure if tension would be reduced enough to make a big difference.

I've been wrong once this evening already, might as well go for twice. Lets say when the gate is shut and the factory specs say you should have a 100lb of pressure on the belts and the belts have stretched and you now only have 80 lbs pressure then your bale will not be as tight as it would be at 100lb of pressure on the belts the #s are just hypothetical on my NH I have hydraulic tension on my bales so it is easily to adjust only takes turning a valve and the seting on it are from 900psi to 2200psi with mine set at 1650psi I can make a 4x5 bale that weighs 1100lbs fresh out of the field actually the bale is 62' tall AC, I just want to be clear.

Hesston 530 Baler Operators Manual

I'm not trying to be argumentative while putting forth my questions, they are real questions on a thought process. Looked up belt lenghts for a 510 John Deere (I'd use Heston numbers if I had access to some). They are supposed to be 484 inches or 40.33 feet. Is 3 - 5 inches really going to make a big difference in bale tightness or starting tension on the springs? Lets talk about the springs, this may be where my theory fails.

Once tension is applied (home position with the door locked) as core is formed and the bale grows the spring is stretched as the bale grows. Is their more pounds of tension extracted if the spring is stretched say 12' as opposed to being stretched only 11 1/2'? Remembering that taking 3 - 5' of belt off a 40 ft.

Belt isn't very much. Spring fatigue may be more of a factor than belt lengths. Looking thru the Operators Manual for my 410 JD Baler- says the belts may be shortend several times without effecting baler operation.

Just states a full size bale might not be able to be formed if they are shortened to much. Resize all belts if one has been shortened more that 2 inches. Ok, if all the belts start out at the same length and one has been shortend for whatever reason greater than 2 inches, its circumference is smaller, probably is under greater tension and stress because all the other belts are larger.

(Picture a trailer with 3 tires the same size and one smaller tire. The smaller tire will be making more rpm's than the other 3 but in this situation it is unhindered by the others because it is working independent so no problem.) Now if a single belt on the baler that is shorter than the rest squeezes that portion of the bale a little tighter (making the bale less uniform or out of shape). It is trying to make more rpm's but is restricted by the other belts because they are larger (more apt to pull the lacings on the shorter belt in my opinion). So you could say that shorting the belt applies more tension but is it really because this one belt is trying to work independently but it can't.

Let's go back to our trailer. Hypothetical if their were a mechanism that limited each tire to rotate only rate of the larger tires number of rpm's, that smaller tire will be under greater stresses and will have to slide along the ground a bit for every rpm the other tires make freely simply because it has to make more rpm's to travel the same distance. Resize the tires to match and these stresses go away. Seems simple and I believe everyone can grasp this example. I think resizing all the belts to match does much the same, relieves all the forces exerted by having mismatched belts so we are back to; Can an old belt be stretched long enough to put a tension spring out of it's operating range to a significant degree?

I'm still in the: not to a great degree camp. Will accept the fact that I might be wrong. Not to proud to say that. Vett To answer your?

To the best of my knowledge on my NH baler if the belts are stretched 5' I have to add about 150-200lbs more hyd pressure (bale tension) to the baler than I do if the belts are at factory specs to get the same density of bale. From my very limited experiance the belts do need to be the same length.If one is shorter it will be tighter, longer looser.Now I do know a few inches don't seem to hurt it much but they will have more stress on them.One thing I have found out is with my baler (hestton 830 4 by 4 bales) is that if I think bale is to loose before I dump it build up rpm's and it seems to tighten.

I guess the faster it spins it tightens it and then I activate the tier after it ties I kick off the pto to dump it.Something else i'l noticed is that if windrows are narrow or high and low I may have to weave the hay into the pickup otherwise the bale will be lopsided or thick an thin. Thanks for all of the information, I just got home from buying the baler!

It's looks to be in pretty good condition, the gears arn't worn to sharp points and the chain had plenty of oil on it. The belts have been replaced with the type that have v bars on them Nd look to be in pretty good shape just a little ravelling on the side but not much. Hooked it up to a tractor and everything seemed to work ok, just ran it for a minute or two. By feeling it doesn't appear that the bearings were too warm, (remember it didn't run very long) but shoot I'll replace them if their bad for the price of this baler. Got a parts manual but didn't get any other info so all of this other info has been a godsend!

Again THANKS for all of the information, it is greatly appreicated that you will take the time to help rookies out. Oh, and the good part is he dropped the price $200!! Oh 2, now I have a good idea of resizing the belts! Got to go check the cows, be back on later.

Dirtdoctor wrote:Thanks for all of the information, I just got home from buying the baler! It's looks to be in pretty good condition, the gears arn't worn to sharp points and the chain had plenty of oil on it. The belts have been replaced with the type that have v bars on them Nd look to be in pretty good shape just a little ravelling on the side but not much. Hooked it up to a tractor and everything seemed to work ok, just ran it for a minute or two. By feeling it doesn't appear that the bearings were too warm, (remember it didn't run very long) but shoot I'll replace them if their bad for the price of this baler.

Got a parts manual but didn't get any other info so all of this other info has been a godsend! Again THANKS for all of the information, it is greatly appreicated that you will take the time to help rookies out. Oh, and the good part is he dropped the price $200!! Oh 2, now I have a good idea of resizing the belts! Got to go check the cows, be back on later. Goodluck hope it works out for the best for you.

I have this exact baler (Hesston 5500 Rounder) and it is very difficult to start bales. I am interested in any pointers from anyone on how the baler could be modified to improve bale starting. I have added friction to the fluted roller and this helps little. I am wondering if wider belts would help, or somehow adding friction to the belts. Is there a way to do so and will it improve bale starting?

Many times, the hay will sit in the chamber and will not begin to tumble. It must be discharged and scattered. I have had the best luck starting bales by hitting the windrow fairly fast in a higher gear and then downshifting once started. Can't do this with large windrows though, or it clogs.

That is another issue, the baler clogs very easily and I spend a lot of time on the ground, unclogging the feed. What can be done to this baler to reduce clogging? A normal windrow will clog it as well, even when baling very slow. I have entertained getting rid of this baler, but have been told there is no market for it.

The guy and a dealer was familiar with the baler and said it was definitely a low point for bale starting. He said they probably wouldn't take it on a trade. As for the tension, I believe it matters to the extent the belts are all the same length, which they are not for my 5500 rounder. I need to cut them all to the same length to get my tension even. One end of the bale is much tighter than the rest.

The springs are adjustable. Smith1000 wrote:I have this exact baler (Hesston 5500 Rounder) and it is very difficult to start bales. I am interested in any pointers from anyone on how the baler could be modified to improve bale starting. I have added friction to the fluted roller and this helps little. I am wondering if wider belts would help, or somehow adding friction to the belts. Is there a way to do so and will it improve bale starting? Many times, the hay will sit in the chamber and will not begin to tumble.

It must be discharged and scattered. I have had the best luck starting bales by hitting the windrow fairly fast in a higher gear and then downshifting once started. Can't do this with large windrows though, or it clogs. That is another issue, the baler clogs very easily and I spend a lot of time on the ground, unclogging the feed. What can be done to this baler to reduce clogging?

A normal windrow will clog it as well, even when baling very slow. I have entertained getting rid of this baler, but have been told there is no market for it. The guy and a dealer was familiar with the baler and said it was definitely a low point for bale starting. He said they probably wouldn't take it on a trade. As for the tension, I believe it matters to the extent the belts are all the same length, which they are not for my 5500 rounder. I need to cut them all to the same length to get my tension even.

One end of the bale is much tighter than the rest. The springs are adjustable. I'd start looking at correct belt lenght makeing sure they are not longer than specs call for. Then correct tension for they type hay you are trying to bale. OK, I found my operators manual.

The bale tension springs are adjustable, however they are pre-set from the factory. Of course, this doesn't take into account any fatigue, so I'd be perfectly willing to give those adjusting nuts a turn or two. Call your local AgCo dealer and see if they still have a service manual around for the the 5500 series Hesston. Chances are there will be a torque adjustment on the nut.

I'm 99% certain we don't have a service book around at work, but I'll give a quick look on Monday. There are stops on the tightener roller though, and these should be adjusted so the belt between the upper and lower drive rollers has about 1.5' of deflection from neutral position. Push on the belts with your thumb and see if you get 1.5' of deflection with good pressure. Smith, Your issues with your 5500 series are common, and the biggest reason why I got rid of that plugging, hard starting miserable SOB of a 5510 of mine. I spent two seasons with mine and the day a dealer took it on trade was the happiest day of my life. That doesn't help you with your issues though, so I'll see if I can pass something along which will help. 1) 5500 series balers like the hay to be PERFECT.

If its overdry, try baling in the morning or evenings with dew on the hay. If its overwet, just let it sit. 2) Use diamond top or herringbone belts.

I replaced my worn out herringbone belts with roughtops and they simply didn't work well. 3) Start the bale in the middle, and as soon as you get even a little bit of hay in the middle, weave very quickly to get hay onto the edges.

4) Instead of raising ground speed to start the bale, keep your ground speed the same, but reduce PTO speed. This gives the belts more opportunity to grab the hay and start it. This holds true for ALL hard core balers if you're having trouble. Once the bale starts, you can bring your PTO speed back up and reduce gearing to get your ground speed back down. 5) As for plugging, these 5500 series balers have narrow throats and are extremely easy to plug. Even in a 1 ton/acre hay crop, my top speed was around 3.5 mph.

Heavier = slower. It was PAINFUL. My best advice? If you can afford it, replace the baler. There are piles of cheap, better balers out there just perfect for smaller operators.

M&W 5x5 and 5x6 (model number 1800, 55xx or 56xx) enclosed chamber balers are excellent choices. 3650 or 8480 Case IHs. 565 Hesstons. 486 and 4865 New Ideas. Stay away from the older narrow throat, hard core balers like the 5500 series Hesston or the JD 510 (and older.

Also watch out for older Case hard core balers. I don't recall the model number, but all they were were rebadged 5500 series Hesstons). If you can afford it, and really want hard core bales, there are better options like the NH 660, 664, or 688 or the JD 535s. On hard core, throat size is important.

6 inch throats aren't acceptable. I'm thinking about opening the throat up wider. If I can drop the wheels lower and the front pivot for the feed, I think 2 or 3 inches could easily be gained for the throat opening. Taller rims might help, but lowering the wheels may be best. As is now, with the pick-up all of the way to the ground, the opening is still very narrow. This may increase the volume enough to start bales easier. I've notice if I can get a substantial amount of hay forced into the chamber quickly, it is more likely to spin and start.

After that, the speed can be reduced to keep the bale round, so it will continue to spin. I don't mind going slow, but in large windrows of thick brome, I often can't go slow enough to prevent the baler from clogging. Solution manual an introduction to stochastic modeling. It just won't feed it in. I have the manual for the baler and have adjusted the belt tension as described in the book, but it did not help with the bale starting. There must be a way to add friction to existing belts. Maybe the belts could be coated with something to grab the hay better.

Often, the first hay in will sit in place in the chamber until it finally catches and begins to sping. Once spinning, it is usually okay after that, or until it clogs. I have ejected many incomplete bales from this baler.

Smith1000 wrote:I'm thinking about opening the throat up wider. If I can drop the wheels lower and the front pivot for the feed, I think 2 or 3 inches could easily be gained for the throat opening. The throat size is the opening between the feed roller and the idler roller behind the pickup. Thats where you're plugging up. Putting bigger tires on isn't going to change this distance, all that will do is make the pickup pivot down lower, and quite probably, reduce the ability of the pickup to feed properly. A pickup thats pointing into the air isn't going to feed. If you've taken your windage tray off, put it back on.

Reduce your PTO speed (tractor RPMs) and grab a couple extra gears when starting the bale. This will maintain your ground speed, and reduce baler speed, allowing the belts a better chance to grab the material for starting the bale. Once you've started the bale, drop your extra gears and pickup up your engine RPMs again. It also sounds like you may be baling too dry. Dry hay will tend to slip on belts versus letting the belt grab them. There is nothing to coat the belts with that will make them 'stickier'.

Good luck with it. I never said it before, but the 5500 Hesston series, was, IMO, one of the world's all time worst balers. I've either owned or baled with a couple dozen different models and years of balers, and I never had anything more ignorant in the field.

Hesston 5500 Rounder-I need an operator's manual - Today's Tractors Today's Tractors Today's Tractors The Modern Tractor Resource Page Featured Photo Click to View The Market Features Information Miscellaneous This is the modern view of the Today's Tractors Forum. Just login with your YT Userid and password to post. If you have trouble logging in, contact us by email to support at ytmag.com, or through the Reader Form, and we will get you going right away. Hesston 5500 Rounder-I need an operator's manual -:: Author Message jermpaula New User Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 2 Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 6:26 am Post subject: Hesston 5500 Rounder-I need an operator's manual I am looking for an operator's manual for a Hesston 5500 round baler. Please let me know if you know where to find one.

Thanks KYfarm Long Time User Joined: 26 Jul 2005 Posts: 573 Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 3:36 pm Post subject: Re: Hesston 5500 Rounder-I need an operator's manual try any massey-ferguson dealer, I am all but sure that MF now sells Hesston Dave2640 New User Joined: 28 Jul 2010 Posts: 3 Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 6:35 am Post subject: Re: Hesston 5500 Rounder-I need an operator's manual jermpaula wrote: (quoted from post at 07:26:09 01/27/09) I am looking for an operator's manual for a Hesston 5500 round baler. Please let me know if you know where to find one. Thanks I have the same baler and have an owners manual, use it often still for adjustments and stuff, still rolls good.

I cant sell the manual but will be glad to print it off and mail it to you. Display posts from previous: - All times are GMT - 8 Hours Page 1 of 1 You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum. Powered by © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group Advertisement Repair/Service manuals available for Allis, Ford, Farmall, John Deere and most other makes and models of tractors. If you are expecting to make repairs to your tractor, check our large online catalog of manuals.

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