• Cox Mower Workshop Manual

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Hi, Does anyone know if there is a workshop manual avaliable for cox? The cone on mine is making some noises at the moment.

I adjusted the plates up the other day and since then it has been making this noise. I dont have any adjuster plates so I have been just guessing. My machine has done 85 hrs.

Doesn't seem like alot of hrs to go through a set of cones?? I've heard of people getting 150-200hrs. Not sure how true this is though. There still looks to be a bit of meat on it but I dont know how far they can be adjusted.

I like doing things myself and would like a workshop manual so I can do any repairs that need doing without pulling it apart then spending hours trying to remember how it goes back together. Any advise would be appreciated. Another thing is I have been greasing the front stub axles but how do I get grease into the bearings in the deck and the rear axle? The only grease points on the Cox is the front axles. All the other bearings are sealed.

I have customers with 10 year old mowers that still have the original cone.but I have others that can get one noisy in 20 hours. There is a tool you can buy from cox to dress the cone. Basically sands a small amount of the cone away with emery tape. Adjusting the cone alone won't create the noise.

Just check the clutch pulley (under the cone) is tight and isn't moving up and down at all.it could be hitting the disks and causing the cone to wear prematurely. Thanks for the reply's. Will check the pulley.

I will also have to get that tool or could I just move the disc's out the way and use some really fine sand paper on a block?? That is what I was thinking of doing before I got your reply. I used it to today and it feels and sounds like the cone is not even?? It did get a bit quieter by the time I finished the job I did. I spoke to a guy at my new local mower shop, he doesn't like cox's he says hydro is the only way to go. He stocks cub cadet but I dont think one of those would cut through what I cut today.

The cox is tough!!! Anybody who doesn't sell Cox's will always say Hydros are better. I don't like them because they don't like hills. No diff lock causes loss of traction and if you are doing that all the time, they'll burn out eventually. The cone setup is heaps cheaper to fix as well.

I use a rough emery tape to dress the cones in the workshop here. What you are talking about with the block would be ok.you just have to make sure you maintain the same angle, otherwise the whole face of the cone won't grip onto the disks. One thing that can make the cone vibrate is putting a flat spot in it. If you push the mower without the engine running, then use the fwd/rvs pedal to stop the mower the disks will rub against one point of the cone and flat spot it. Cones can get quieter during use because constant pressure on the disks will wear the cone and it can wear back into a shape.it will take a lot longer than dressing it though. Thanks Greasemonkey, what you just said about pushing the mower without the engine running is what has happened. When I adjusted the plates up the mower was cold.

Cox Mower Workshop Manual

I adjusted the plates as close as I could get them without touching gave it a quick test then put it on the ute. (I didn't know what gap was needed but I've just found out it's.08mm??) Got to the first job and after 5 mins I could smell the cone and the pedal had no neutral. I worked out that the plates may have expanded slightly after warming up leaving no gap. I pushed the mower back to the ute to readjust. It was when I used it again that it was real loud. That would also explain why sometimes it is noisey and then it goes away again. It's obvously moving around on the ute a bit causing little flat spots.

At the local cox dealer they have told me to replace the cone if it gets noisey.those money sucking little buggers. Not that I go there anymore.

Thanks heaps for the info. I think from now on I'm gonna stick some cardboard bettween the cone and the plates while transporting. Good to hear you have a solution!

90% of the time you can dress the noise out of the cone, but once they get too bad dressing won't do too much. A new cone is $116 (genuine cox cone, not aftermarket) so if you can dress the noise out it will help a lot. The gap being too big between the disks and cone won't hurt anything. If it is too big you will just have a fair bit of play between where fwd and rvs grips on your pedal.

I don't use the plates to adjust the gap when I do it, I only ever do it by eye, and I've never had a problem. I normally loosen both disks off and spread them apart then put the drive pedal where I want reverse to grip (about a inch off the side foot rail). Tighten that disk. Then bring the forward one over so it's hard up against the cone (both disks will be hard up against the cone). Then I just bring the forward disk out a flys.t.

Test the forward rvs pedal to make sure it grips properly both ways and then put it in neutral and move the mower back and foward to make sure you have nuetral clearance. I've never had a problem doing it like this. I normally charge half an hour labour, so it's pretty straight forward. (That's if everything comes apart easily.

$330 is absolutely rediculous to change a drive cone if that's all they did. (Did they replace belts, bearings or clutch pulley?). It's fairly easy.you have to remove the clutch. Basically take drive belt tension off.one 'R' clip on the front of the clutch yolk (this is connected to the fwd/rvs pedal) and then the pivot bolt at the back. You'll need to split the drive disks apart all the way and you can normally slide the clutch out on the front and then it comes out from underneath the mower.

Flip the clutch over upside down and put it in a vice and undo everything (pulley is threaded, unless its a new gen which has a bolt that holds it together). Once you replace the cone make sure you put everything back the same way it came apart and tighten up the pulley or bolt on the bottom. The clutch yolk should spin freely without any rumbling.

If it is tight or noisy then you'll have to replace the two bearings (6304 off the top of my head) or the pulley or bolt is way too tight. It's a fairly straight forward job and I'm happy to go into more details with you if have any dramas.